The Cotton Pants

An enduring piece of American athletic wear, reconstructed with the precision and material integrity that define Joe McCoy. Inspired by the earliest cotton sweatpants introduced in the 1920s, this pair is made in Japan from substantial 10-ounce loopwheel cotton, with a brushed loopback interior that provides exceptional softness and warmth. The fabric is slowly knitted in Wakayama on rare vintage machines known as Tsuriami-ki. Producing approximately one meter of fabric per hour, these machines work with remarkably low thread tension, creating a material with natural elasticity, a softly textured surface, and the character of a hand-woven textile. Different yarns are used throughout the fabric's layers to achieve a balanced structure and finish that cannot be replicated through conventional mass production. Relaxed without feeling careless, these sweatpants offer lasting comfort and develop a more personal, naturally worn appearance with continued use. Finished with cotton sewing thread and made entirely in Japan, they elevate a familiar everyday garment through patience, craftsmanship, and restraint. This Black Essential is simplicity at its most considered—quietly substantial, deeply comfortable, and made to be worn for years.