The Chicago 120 (45mm)

What Makes The Chicago 120 Unique: The Chicago 120 brings together several qualities collectors consistently seek: a beautifully engraved center medallion, striking blued-steel hands, and an Elgin movement produced during one of the company’s strongest periods of manufacturing. Built around a 17-jewel Elgin movement from 1928, this watch represents the closing years of America’s golden age of pocket watch production, when refinement and mechanical reliability had reached a remarkably mature stage. The dial is the first feature that commands attention. While the outer chapter ring presents a clean, highly legible layout with bold Arabic numerals, the center section reveals a level of decorative detail that transforms the entire character of the watch. Intricate floral engraving fills the central medallion, creating texture and depth that shift subtly as light moves across the surface. Collectors often gravitate toward dials like this because they showcase the craftsmanship that distinguished many higher-quality American pocket watches from their more utilitarian counterparts. The contrast between the engraved center and the simpler outer dial creates a layered appearance that feels elegant without becoming overly ornate. The original Elgin signature remains sharply visible within the medallion, serving as a reminder of the movement’s heritage and the company responsible for producing it nearly a century ago. Equally distinctive are the blued-steel hands. Their angular, decorative profile immediately separates this watch from more common examples, while the deep blue coloration provides a striking contrast against the silver-toned dial. The matching blued sub-seconds hand completes the composition and creates a sense of visual continuity throughout the display. These details are subtle at first glance but become increasingly rewarding the longer the watch is studied. Turning the watch over reveals an equally compelling movement. The 17-jewel Elgin movement showcases decorative damaskeening across the upper plates, creating a geometric pattern that catches light throughout the movement. Gold jewel settings provide warm points of contrast against the silver-toned finish, while the exposed balance assembly offers a constant reminder of the mechanical precision operating beneath the dial. By 1928, Elgin had become one of the most prolific and respected watch manufacturers in the United States, producing movements known for their dependability and quality. This example reflects that reputation through its clean architecture, thoughtful finishing, and enduring mechanical design. The engraved patterns visible throughout the movement elevate it beyond pure function and into the realm of industrial artistry. The modern presentation complements these historic elements beautifully. Vortic’s 45mm sandblasted stainless steel case introduces a contemporary matte texture that allows the antique dial to remain the focal point. The machined crown provides crisp tactile feedback when winding the movement, while the black leather strap adds contrast that reinforces the watch’s monochromatic palette. The Chicago 120 succeeds because it balances ornamentation and restraint so effectively. The engraved center dial provides character without overwhelming the design, the blued hands introduce visual drama without sacrificing legibility, and the Elgin movement delivers the kind of craftsmanship that continues to attract collectors generations after it was built. Together, these elements create a watch that feels both refined and unmistakably American.