Saxum 2021 Rocket Block, Paso Robles

Limited new release from Saxum. 98 Points Jeb Dunnuck: "Composed of 70% Grenache, 15% Mataro, 11% Syrah and 4% Counoise, the 2021 Rocket Block James Berry Vineyard was raised 32 months in 34% new 300-liter barrels and used foudre. The nose is herbal, dark-fruited and elegant despite the apparent power coiled inside it, showing off aromas of resinous herbs, amaro, fruitcake and dark spice accents. The palate is simply gigantic, pulling no punches in its decadent, powerful richness that perplexingly remains tensile, agile and deft. The finish is fabulously decadent, lined with fine yet grippy tannins and graceful, elegant fruit flavors that pull off a soft landing despite the seemingly endless concentration behind them. This is an excellent example of Saxum's ability to produce wines that are equal parts powerful, graceful and balanced." One of California’s unquestionably superstar estates is Heather and Justin Smith’s Saxum Vineyards, and you won’t find any finer examples of Rhône variety wines anywhere in the world. The proprietors of James Berry Vineyard, located in the cooler Willow Creek District of Paso Robles, the Smiths have seen incredible changes over the past decade, and they’ve traded their small, old-fashioned, yet perfectly adequate cellar for a brand-new cave and state of the art winemaking facility. And while changes of this magnitude can often result in hiccups in either the style or quality of the wines, that’s certainly not the case here. I think the wines have never been better, and given the scores I’ve awarded in the past, that’s saying something. Today, the Smiths release multiple cuvées, and while the focus in the past might have been the estate James Berry Vineyard, the portfolio includes numerous new vineyard sources and cuvées, most focusing on single vineyards and even specific blocks inside of a vineyard. This report looks at the 2018s and 2019s, and in a nutshell, these wines epitomize what I consider greatness in wine; the ability to offer both hedonistic and intellectual pleasure; intensity and richness without heaviness or any sensation of weight; singular profiles; and the ability to improve with bottle age. In addition, the purity and precision this estate can achieve are incredible, and certainly, many estates and winemakers in Paso Robles need to be tasting these wines to understand why they’re great and what is possible from these incredible limestone soils. As a critic, it’s always a challenge to try and understand why wines show differently and why one estate can produce brilliant wines and others struggle. Given the prodigious wines the Smiths release year in and year out from different vineyards (and now even from different winemaking facilities), it’s become increasingly apparent that the quality coming from Saxum is due to the genius of Justin Smith. After being lucky enough to taste these wines every year for well over a decade now, I can say that no one in California does Rhône varieties and blends better. I’ve written this many times in the past, but I’ll say it again, this is one of the few mailing lists worth being on.