Ramon Jane "Tinc Set" [250ml can]

Ramon Jané is a project originally started by Ramon, his wife Mercè Cuscó, and Toni Carbo in 2006. They have been immensely important in resisting the dominance of the industrial Cava producers in Catalonia. About 220 million bottles are produced by about three companies there, led by Freixenet. Standards keep dropping and the most serious producers keep leaving the official Cava designation. The most radical and natural producers in the region are Ramon Jané  — now Ramon, Mercè, and their son Jordi — and Toni Carbo's La Salada label. Ramon is a complete obsessive about everything in his vineyard, and he is a devotee of biodynamics. Whatever he is doing, his land is bursting with lush, green vivacity and the wines show this without bursting with bacterial funk. The grapes for the Tinc Set Sparkling come from a vineyard that is not tilled so as to preserve the microbial and mycorrhizal life in the soil. It's 60% Xarello and 40% Parellada with zero sulfur added, made as a single fermentation Pet Nat. It's a real beauty of a bubbly, with floral touches, golden currant, and a salty thirst quenching minerality that is downright life affirming. Jonathan Kemp