Ottoman Ambergris: Oud Royale Absolu

Every Friday, without exception, Abdül Hamit II burned oud and rose. He documented his mimosa obsession. He personally funded the shop that became the foundation of the empire’s fragrance trade. The recipe for Ottoman incense water still sits in Topkapi Palace. Suleiman wore sandalwood. Selim loved amber. Mehmet wanted violets. These men ruled the known world and considered fragrance important enough to archive alongside military strategy. The Ottoman sultans didn’t just wear perfume. They legislated it into palace protocol. The ghalias made for them were extraordinary. They were also unfinished – not for lack of skill or ambition, but for lack of aromatics that simply didn’t exist yet. No Borneo agarwood. No Sumatran oud. No Maroke, no Sri Lankan Walla Pattas, no Bhutanese or Yunnanese oud. And beyond the aromatics themselves, no access to the technology that would have unlocked what those harvests had locked up inside… This is the ghalia they never got to make. ❁ Our reputation was initially built on a Maroke oud. That should tell you a lot about how we feel about those jungles; those trees. Oud Royale 1 has always been the benchmark. But when it comes to making perfume, there’s something even better… Oud Royale Absolu is a loyal cousin to Oud Royale 1 in terms of quality and purity, and with almost 17 years maturation to brag about, it also possesses genuine vintage verve. What changed dramatically was not the source, but the extraction method. And when it comes to perfumery, there’s a massive difference.  Standard distillation gives you an essential oil, which typically gives you a fraction of the botanical, the part that survives heat and steam. High-heat extracts like CO2 could give you an overly linear core profile detached from auxiliary notes. This uses high pressure – not hydro distillation, not steam extraction, not even CO2 – purely pressure. This is a perfumery-centric extraction method designed specifically to yield something that has no established name, because nothing like it has existed before. The closest analogy would be an agarwood absolute, but genuine agarwood absolutes are so rare and low-yielding as to be practically nonexistent – what gets sold under that name is almost never the real thing. This oud has no precedent. What you have here is pure crude Maroke agarwood resin extracted wholesale – the entire olfactory cosmos of the wood, lock, stock and barrel, brought directly into the perfume without the losses distillation inevitably incurs. This is why serious perfumery reaches for absolutes to achieve specific profiles – they may not be as pristine neat, but they’re more layered, more replete, and tenacious. No one in five centuries of peak Ottoman fragrance culture had access to what we’re describing. The sultans had no steam or CO2 extraction machines, let alone such high-pressure rigs. The technology simply did not exist. They couldn’t dream of creating a ghalia that contains oud extracted as a perfumery ingredient, not the kind you’d normally swipe neat. Not to mention a wild incense-grade Maroke harvest of this caliber.  Other perfumers would give anything to get their hands on something like this, which is precisely why we don’t sell it separately. The ingredient is proprietary. The smell is proprietary. The only place you will ever smell it is in an EO perfume.  But this unique Maroke isn’t the only oud that shapes Ottoman Ambergris. I wanted this to be a Ghalia² – replete with the olfactory wonders of the world. Aged Raw Ambergris In addition to Oud Royale Absolu, you’ve got an oud chord composed of rare distillations, none of which were present in the Sultanate era. Muana Royale (Bhutanese) and Yunnan Royale and Tigerwood 1995 and Suriranka (Sri Lankan Walla Patta), Nha Trang – every one wild, every one incense-grade, every one the caliber of oud that would headline any serious composition in the world. Borneo agarwood adds its raspberry-vanillic to the bourbon vanilla’s delectable flavor, further enhanced with blonde tobacco. Sumatran oud extends the ghalia tradition into territory the Ottoman perfumers never imagined. Pink lotus and osmanthus’ creamy pollen magic cast into Maroke’s earthen-smoky, petrichor-herbaceous choco-Arabica core. Mimosa and rose and jasmine juhi and hyacinth and cassie move through the middle – Abdül Hamit’s florals, Selim’s beloved sweetness, the entire historical palette finally composed together – decorated with the narcotic warmth of bourbon ylang ylang, the dry smokiness of black tea tinged with castoreum’s gentle animalic bite.  Through it all, wafts of that pristine earth-piercing Oud Royale Absolue resin, its animalic-resinous depth cutting through a cloud of ambergris before the florals begin to dance. Thick jasmine, sticky hyacinth and cassie set the tone as mimosa and rose diffuse outward, the entire floral heart smelling simultaneously ancient and narcotic. The ouds don’t take turns, but move together as a chord, the Borneo vanillic warmth threading through Walla Patta’s aquatic incense and the Wild Nha Trang medicinal rouge, Tigerwood 1995 adding a plummy, resinous undertone. All of it awash in Ambergris SQ – not used as a base note or fixative, nor present as an oceanic accent. Here’s what ambergris actually does: it makes everything around it smell larger than itself. More diffusive, more tenacious, more alive on skin. A cloud of it and the whole composition pops. In a formula this dense, this loaded, that function is not decorative. It’s the reason this ghalia works at the level it does. Spray it once. You’ll spend the rest of the day catching it on yourself. It’s not a smell-it-once-and-you-know-what-it’s-about kind of fragrance – it reveals itself in layers, over hours, rewarding the time you give it. Sultans, perfumers, traders – no one in the history of fragrance ever had access to all of this at once. COMPOSITION: Oud Royale Absolu · Muana Royale · Suriranka · Wild Nha Trang Oud · Yunnan Royale · Borneo Agarwood Resin · Sumatran Oud · Maroke Oud · Tigerwood 1995 · Ambergris SQ · Jasmine Juhi · Pink Lotus · Hyacinth · Mimosa · Cassie · Rose · Bourbon Vanilla · Bourbon Ylang Ylang · Castoreum · Osmanthus · Oakmoss · Black Tea · Peru Balsam with Tobacco · Vetiver infused with Tonkin Musk Reviews of Ottoman Ambergris… Just want to mention, the new Ottoman Ambergris is a work of pure genius. What an encore! —Albert / USA