Masseto 2021

95 points - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, February 2024 The 2021 Masseto is back to being 100% Merlot. Recent past vintages saw a tiny part of Cabernet Franc. That second varietal in the blend represents the proverbial "tax" one must pay in the face of climate change, especially when making wine on the sun-drenched Tuscan Coast. This is a very rich and elaborate expression with the extract, tannic tightness and the hefty 15.5% alcohol content to match. It comes off as quite big-boned or monotone. The wine is redolent of blackberry confit and cooked cherry, with a wide range of sweet oak spices to close. There is dark chocolate with a thin lining of creamy mint filling. Within the context of that fullness and generous fruit weight, Masseto is quite a commitment in terms of price and further cellaring. More bottle aging is an absolute requirement. Here's a bit of news I am especially happy to report: between the sister estates Ornellaia and Masseto, bottle weight has been reduced by 82 tons in two years. The goal is to reduce an additional 12 tons before next year. For example, the bottle for the 2021 Masseto reviewed here was reduced by 150 grams to its current weight of 600 grams. This is a theme I have been following carefully (https://www.robertparker.com/wines/u8L84HES4Nid48LDw), because if a brand as important as Masseto takes a leadership stand on environmentally unfriendly glass bottles, other estates will surely follow. This is a time of enormous change for Ornellaia and Masseto. Estate Director Axel Heinz left his position in March 2023 after nearly two decades in Bolgheri. The German-born, Bordeaux-trained winemaker is currently employed at Château Lascombes in Margaux. Axel joined the Tuscan estate in 2005 and oversaw the development of Ornellaia and Masseto as distinct brands, each with their own dedicated winery today. Lamberto Frescobaldi is president of the group today. Former Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes, the visionary who brought Masseto to La Place de Bordeaux, announced his retirement in 2023. Starting January 1, 2024, a new team was put into place. Marco Balsimelli is charged with production (returning home to Italy from Bordeaux, where he spent 17 years with Laboratoire Oenologique Boissenot) and Giuliano Tarchi is vineyard manager (for both Ornellaia and Masseto). Gaia Cinnirella is winemaker for Masseto, and the Ornellaia winemaker is Denise Cosentino (she replaces outgoing Olga Fusari).   - Monica Larner