Iuli "Barat" Bianco 2022

Fabrizio Iuli has lived in the chalky white clay soils of Monferrato his whole life and is one of the best in the region at showcasing the mineral freshness and finesse that is possible from his native hills, where no synthetic chemical treatments have ever been used. This is despite the ridicule that he and his father were subjected to for not following the ways of modern viticulture. The surrounding forest has given the vines further isolation and protection from agrochemical overspray. These days, Fabrizio's organic vines are getting more respect than ever, and his wines continue to adjust in style as climate changes the game.  The Iuli Barat is 100% Baratuciat, a white grape whose name means 'cat balls' in local Piemontese dialect. Don't blame the messenger: it was named by Italian farmers, not a focus group. Apparently the grapes resemble cat testicles. And, yes, they did go there with the label, but it's more subtle than you think. The Iuli Barat is a wonderfully rewarding and complex wine expressing vibrant aromas of stone fruits, marzipan, honeycomb confection, rosemary, dried fruit, honeysuckle flowers, and spiced pineapple. On the palate the complexity is echoed with notes of honey, almond, golden ripe apple, honeysuckle an dried fruit, with high acid, medium body, and a hint of spice that in total is reminiscent of aged dry Tokaj with a bolt of electricity. Jonathan Kemp & Jeremy Hernandez