Chateau Pichon Baron 2020, Pauillac

98 pts                                                                                                                          Extremely limited Wine Spectator #8 Wine of 2023. 99 Points James Suckling: "Fabulous aromas of blackcurrant, blueberry, crushed stone, graphite and lead pencil. Some violets and other flowers, too. Full-bodied with incredibly encompassing tannins that are like the finest velvet in texture. The structure is superb, with so much tension and focus. Seamless. This could be the new 1990 or better. Try after 2028." 97 Points Wine Spectator: "This has a very large-scaled yet properly proportioned core of cassis, plum and blackberry fruit flavors that are remarkably pure and focused. Buried deep within is a sleek, vibrant iron spine that drives the finish as the fruit keeps pace. Extra savory, tobacco and cedar nuances fill out all the remaining available space. A towering wine, with a buttoned-up feel. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2030 through 2045. Owner Frédéric Rouzaud hired Nicolas Glumineau as general director in 2012, and this famed Bordeaux second-growth has been on an upward trajectory ever since. Glumineau has overseen a replanting program, increasing the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the vineyards and shifting steadily to organic and biodynamic farming. A cellar renovation included new, smaller vats for a more exacting, parcel-by-parcel and even intra-parcel vinification process. The results show: In 2018, the estate hit the bar set by its acclaimed ’82 and ’59 vintages with its grand vin blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a blue chip built for long cellar time. Bordeaux’s 2020 growing season was far from ideal; top terroirs and old vines handled the rainy spring and hot, dry summer best. Respected second-growth Château Pichon Baron has been under the ownership of insurance company AXA since 1987; Christian Seely took over as managing director in 2000, following in the footsteps of the late Jean-Michel Cazes. Along with longtime winemaker Jean-René Matignon, who retired in 2022, the duo renovated the cellar and tweaked farming methods during their time together, deftly steering Pichon Baron into today’s elite group of modern Left Bank properties. Pichon Baron’s 2020 grand vin is broad and well-proportioned, with a vibrant iron spine buried in its dark fruit.