Château Margaux Pavillon Blanc 2017

96 points - Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, March 2020 Chateau Margaux has a spraying system to combat frost at this vineyard. Still, yields were down to 22 hectoliters per hectare due to some crop losses. As always, the 2017 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It opens slowly to reveal scents of fresh pineapple, lime blossoms, orange peel and lemon curd with hints of yuzu zest, wet pebbles, struck flint and kumquat. Medium-bodied, the palate absolutely sings of vibrant citrus fruits and mineral accents, sporting a very lively line of freshness, finishing with great length and whispering of tons of aging potential. Stellar Pavillon Blanc! Readers should note that after 15 years of experimenting with Diam, this is the first year this wine will be bottled under this closure. To further aid aging with consistency, this is also the first year that the wine is in a dark green bottle as opposed to the former clear glass. A small section of the vineyards at Château Margaux was frosted in 2017, equating to around a 10% loss. Yields were 34 hectoliters per hectare overall. This year, the grand vin accounts for 37% of production, with Pavillon Rouge taking a hit and only accounting for 22% of production, in an effort to be ultra-selective with this second wine and maintain quality. Consequently, some very good wines went into the third wine this year. “I would say it is more of a Cabernet Sauvignon year this vintage,” winemaker Philippe Bascaules told me. “Cabernet Sauvignon was more concentrated than Merlot this year.” A little saignée was necessary on the Merlot but not so with the Cabernet. “The blend of Château Margaux has evolved to have less and less Merlot,” Bascaules continued. “Cabernet Sauvignon today is more the style that we expect.”