Aloha Tile Stencil

Our Aloha Tile stencil’s unique star-like features derive from symmetric designs commonly found in Polynesian culture! The thick, rounded bridges have a tribal and geometric element that bring a harmonious flow to any room! Like traditional Hawaiian tattoos, this stencil patten looks bold and beautiful in black. Use a professional stencil brush and add various color combinations within the tile stencil to create a one-of-kind pattern! Our Aloha Tile stencil comes with built-in registration marks for easy alignment! This tile stencil is perfect tool to makeover tile floors, cement floors, accent walls, kitchen black splashes, furniture and much more! Our tile stencil designs are super easy to use and provide big savings to more costly alternatives of floor tiles and wallpaper. We also include a free Grout Line stencil to give your stenciled tiles that sharp, clean look! Please check out our illustrated step-by-step Tile stencil tutorial! With our Tile stencils, it's easy to create a dramatic tile kitchen backsplash. Get a Pinterest-worthy DIY cement tile floor for a fraction of the price of real tile! How to measure your tile: The size of our tile stencil designs are exactly as advertised. We currently offer them in 6", 8", 12", and 16". The grout line is NOT factored into those sizes. Before ordering, please measure your tile from tile edge to tile edge. Do NOT include the grout lines. If your tile is slightly larger/smaller than our listed dimensions, please contact customer service using Contact form. We recommend purchasing 2 tile stencils for your project. Not only it will go faster, but you'll be able to get into tighter places and corners by cutting your spare tile stencil. You can certainly bend your stencil and still get all the spots, but you know what we're sayin' - it makes your life easier! :) About registration marks: you can use them to align your tile stencil repeats, or not! It really depends on what surface you're stenciling. When stenciling over an existing old tile, the registration marks might not be helpful as the grout width varies from floor to floor. In this case, simply mask out the registration marks with pieces of blue tape, and align the stencil by eye by centering it on each old tile. If you are stenciling over a wall, or linoleum/cement floor - please use registration marks for easy alighnment of your tile stencil. Please see our alignment pic for reference. To stencil over existing floor tiles, first wash and dry your floor, then give it a coat of adhesive primer (Stix is best in our experience), after that apply a base coat color (regular wall paint will do). Then, stencil your floor in acrylic or latex paint and finally seal it with two coats of water-based polyurethane for durability. For expert stenciling tips, please watch our How-to stencil videos! You'll find them extremely helpful for your stenciling project. Even beginners get great results! Although most of our stencils do not require the use of spray adhesive, if your walls have a texture to them, it might be a good idea to use spray adhesive to help minimize paint seepage (Elmer's spray adhesive seems to be the best). Make sure you shake the can well and lightly mist (not drench) the stencil, and let it dry for a moment before positioning it on the wall. This step will prevent the adhesive residue transferring to the wall. You'll need to re-mist the stencil after a few repeats. Note: you will still need to hold the stencil in place with a few pieces of blue painters tape! Adhesive by itself is not enough to hold the stencil on the wall. Clean-up tip: Spray the stencil with Simple Green to help to remove adhesive residue and let it sit for a while before cleaning with soap and water. Please note that it is virtually impossible to get rid of all adhesive residue. That's why we personally prefer not to use it and just stick with painter's tape! Stenciling on rough or textured walls may contribute to increased paint bleed. For more information on stenciling on textured walls, see our F.A.Q. section. About seepage and imperfections: Even with a proper loaded roller and correct technique you might get some minor paint seepage here and there. In most cases it's not noticeable, especially from a couple of feet away and it can be easily touched up with a small brush. Don't forget that you're creating a "hand-painted wall finish". A few imperfections and some paint seepage here and there are natural and inevitable for this type of work. To avoid seepage, use spray adhesive and less paint on your roller and brush. Did you know you can stencil your own fabric and use it for curtains, tablecloths, pillows, etc.? When stenciling on fabric, please use stencil adhesive to ensure good results. First, tape your ironed fabric to the surface so it doesn't move around while you stencil. You'll get better results with stencil brushes, but sometimes roller can work too, depending on your fabric. Add some textile medium ( sold in craft stores) to your acrylic paint. You can also get a specially formulated fabric paint, but, frankly, good craft acrylic paint with a dollop of textile medium mixed in works just as well, and costs way less! :) Let the stenciled image dry completely, 24 hours is best, then heat-set it by ironing the fabric for about 20-30 seconds on a LOW setting through the piece of cloth. Heat-setting will cure the paint and will prevent it from being washed off in the washing machine. Always experiment with a sample of your fabric first to ensure good results. We have stenciled on silk, cotton, linen and even sheer fabrics with great results. It's always better if your fabric doesn't have too much texture. Our stencils are made to last and with proper care and storage will serve you for long time.