Granny Smith Green Paint

Environmentally Friendly, Non-Toxic, Powder Paint! Just Add Water! Real Milk Paint is the ideal choice for an environmentally friendly, non-toxic paint that gives you convenience and a broad color selection. When choosing milk paint always choose products from The Real Milk Paint Company. Sticks to raw wood, plaster, dry wall, stone, unsealed brick and concrete Paint right on existing finishes for a Peele, Chippy or crackled surface No Primer need on raw wood and porous surfaces Sticks to latex with the addition of Ultra Bond Easy to use, water-based formula Each bag contains everything needed, just add water Remains usable for a minimum of two weeks after mixing with water Does not congeal to a blob Environmentally friendly Non-toxic Does not contain radioactive Kaolin Clays as a filler Traditional color palette, based on antique painted furniture Virtually no odor No residual odor after drying Dries fast Why Our Milk Paint is Powder Our milk paint comes in powder form for several key reasons. By manufacturing milk paint as a powder, we extend its shelf life significantly—unlike pre-mixed paints, it doesn’t spoil or dry out, giving you more time to use it without waste. This form also offers flexibility; you can mix only as much paint as needed for your project, ensuring minimal product waste. Additionally, the absence of “water weight” in the powdered formula reduces shipping costs and carbon emissions, making it a more eco-friendly choice compared to traditional paints. The manufacturing process itself is clean and sustainable, using natural, nontoxic ingredients derived from milk protein, plants, and minerals. NOTE: All colors shown both digitally and in print are for representational purposes only. Please test any color in context to ensure it is the color you desire. How To Use Real Milk Paint®Preparation With every painting project, the preparation is just as important as the paint. Follow the guidance below to get your surface ready for Real Milk Paint®. Make sure the surface is free of contamination, wax, grease, or oils. We recommend residue free cleaners such as EMERGE Cleaner & Degreaser or TSP (trisodium phosphate). For painting over nonporous or previously finished surfaces always test for adhesion or use Ultra Bond to ensure adhesion. Real Milk Paint® is a natural product and sticks best to other natural, porous surfaces like raw wood, concrete, brick, terra cotta, etc. To remove conventional paint or finishes prior to using milk paint, we recommend Soy Gel. Or use Milk Paint Remover to strip away protein-based paints like milk paint. Do not use color changing filler to repair any holes prior to using Real Milk Paint®. There is a reaction between the lime in the milk paint and the color-changing filler that turns the filler back to a pinkish-purple tone after it has dried. We recommend using Real Wood Filler. Do not use Bondo to repair holes prior to using Real Milk Paint®. This can often times be sanded too smooth or contain vinyl which resists milk paint adhering. Should I use a primer? This is a common question that can vary based on the scenario. Real Milk Paint® is best on raw/unfinished, porous materials such as wood, concrete, brick, etc. If working with this material surface, we do not recommend using a primer. If you are painting a wall, or a previously finished surface that is not porous, you likely will need to use a primer. We recommend water-based (usually made of acrylic) primers such as Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer. Mixing Measuring The Amount Each Real Milk Paint® package contains the appropriate amount of powdered milk paint to create the stated amount of paint (pint/quart/gallon). The recommended mixture is one part milk paint powder to one part water: Pint – 1.25 cups of powder mixes with 1.25 cups of water Quart – 2.5 cups of powder mixes with 2.5 cups of water Gallon – 10 cups of powder mixes with 10 cups of water Each cup of mixed paint covers approximately 28 sq. feet with one coat. How To Mix Milk Paint Similar to mixing boxed pancakes or a protein powder, it’s easy to mix milk paint. Open the container and remove the bag of powdered milk paint. Open the bag and add the entire bag contents back into the container or add a measured amount. Do not mix milk paint in a steel container. It’s best to mix milk paint in a glass, plastic, or lined paper container like the one provided. Add equal parts of water into the container. Tap water can be used. For best results, use warm or distilled water. Milk paint can be mixed by stirring with a paint stick or by shaking using the included marble. Add Anti-Foam if necessary to reduce excess foaming. After mixing, let paint rest for 10 minutes so powder fully dissolves in water. Shake or stir again as needed. Real Milk Paint® should have a creamy, “melted milkshake” consistency. If the paint is too thin, add small amounts of milk paint powder in, stirring or shaking as necessary. If the consistency of the paint is too thick, add small amounts of water into the mixture. Adding Ultra Bond For painting over existing finishes, previously painted surfaces, or a non-porous materials, we recommend using Ultra Bond in Real Milk Paint®. Add Ultra Bond to the mixed, liquid milk paint after following the steps above. We recommend adding about 25% Ultra Bond to milk paint. Here is a handy guide on how much Ultra Bond to add by size: Pint – Add 4 oz of Ultra Bond Quart – Add 8 oz of Ultra Bond Gallon – Add 32 oz of Ultra Bond Simply pour Ultra Bond into liquid milk paint and stir well. Application Follow the instructions below to get a flawless milk paint finish. Apply Real Milk Paint® using a quality painter’s brush, bristle brush, foam brush, or roller. Foam rollers with a thin NAP are recommended as they don’t absorb too much paint. Dip your brush well into the milk paint. Do not use “foam” from the surface of the liquid paint for application. Apply milk paint across the surface in manageable sections using long, smooth strokes to distribute the paint evenly. Always blend each new stroke back into the wet boundary of the previous section, maintaining a “wet edge” so the entire coat fuses together without leaving visible overlapping seams. Allow paint to dry for 30 minutes before applying successive coats. Real Milk Paint® dries quickly! For complete and even coverage, two coats are recommended. (Optional) Lightly sand or use a burnishing pad or 0000 steel wool to smooth milk paint. Clean up with mild soap and water. For a professional cleaning of your brushes, use Lye Soap. Designed specifically to help lift and remove milk paint for an easier and more thorough clean. Sealing Milk Paint Milk paint is a porous paint and if left unsealed may absorb dirt, greases, and stains. After the paint has dried, it can be sealed with a variety of finishes. For more information, click the “Sealing & Topcoats” toggle below. Sealing & Topcoats Unlike modern, conventional paints which coat surfaces in a layer of plastic, Real Milk Paint® is naturally porous and absorbent. Because of this, milk paint is not resistant to liquids on it’s own. We recommend sealing or top-coating milk paint. It’s important to note that when applying a seal or topcoat, especially waxes, some pigment transfer to the applicator is normal. Real Milk Paint® can be sealed/top-coated with most available finishes on the market such as finishing oils, waxes, poly’s, shellac, varnish, and more. Each will have a minimal or significant effect on the milk paint, so testing beforehand is recommend. In the table below are our recommendations for sealing milk paint: Seal/Topcoat Best Over Milk Paint For Color Change Dry Time Sheen Indoor/Outdoor Furniture Wax Light to moderately used painted surfaces such as furniture, chairs, and decorative items. Clear – minimal change to color. Colors – Significant 30 minutes dry to touch. 24 hours full cure. Matt to satin sheen. Indoor Paste Wax Moderate to heavy use painted surfaces such as tool boxes, work benches, and floors. Clear – minimal color change. Not recommended over dark colors. Brown – Significant color change. 30 minutes dry to touch. 24 hours full cure. Satin to high sheen. Indoor or outdoors under covered areas. Wood Wax On surfaces where durability and food contact safety is a concern such as spoons, bowls, and wooden toys. Significant color change. Typically, darkening most colors. 5-7 days dry to the touch. 10-14 days full cure. Satin to high sheen. Indoor or outdoors under covered areas. Finishing Creams Light to moderately used painted surfaces such as cabinets, chairs, and islands. Minimal color change. 30 minutes dry to touch. 24 hours full cure. Matte to High Sheen Indoor Pure Tung Oil / Dark Tung Oil Moderate to heavy use painted surfaces over very absorbent materials such as concrete, barn wood, unpolished tile, and cinder block.  Significant color change. Typically, darkening most colors. 7-10 days dry to the touch. 14 – 30 days full cure. Matt to satin sheen. Indoor or outdoors. Half & Half / Dark Half Moderate to heavy use painted surfaces over porous materials such as floors, wood furniture, and kitchen items.  Significant color change. Typically, darkening most colors. 7-10 days dry to the touch. 14 – 30 days full cure. Matt to satin sheen. Indoor or outdoors. Outdoor Defense Oil Moderate to heavy use painted surfaces over porous materials such as patio furniture, garden beds, and beehives. Significant color change. Typically, darkening most colors. 7-10 days dry to the touch. 14 – 30 days full cure. Matt to satin sheen. Indoor or outdoors. Hemp Oil Light to moderate use painted surfaces over porous materials such as wooden toys, wooden furniture, and kitchen items.  Significant color change. Typically, darkening most colors. 7-10 days dry to the touch. 14 – 30 days full cure. Matt to satin sheen. Indoors Painting Walls Real Milk Paint® creates unique and inviting spaces when painting walls due to it’s natural variation in tones. Though flat in sheen, milk paint does not create a completely even color tone across large surfaces. Use our Paint Calculator to see how much milk paint you’ll need for your project. Follow the steps below to get the most out of applying milk paint to walls. Should I use a primer? If you are painting a wall that was previously painted or a finished surface that is not porous, you likely will need to use a primer. We recommend water-based (usually made of acrylic) primers such as Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Primer. Applying to walls Mix milk paint according to instructions provided and previously noted. For the smoothest application, use a foam roller with a thin NAP. When rolling a wall, work in small vertical sections using long, smooth strokes in an “N” or “W” pattern to distribute the paint evenly. Always roll back into the wet boundary of your previous pass, maintaining that wet edge so the overlapping roller tracks fuse seamlessly together. Two (2) coats are recommended for complete coverage. Spraying Milk Paint It is possible to spray milk paint! You can use various kinds of paint sprayers such as HVLP to spray milk paint. We have found that gravity fed texture spray guns work best. Here are the recommended steps to take when spraying milk paint. Mix the milk paint thoroughly according to the provided instructions. Mixing the day before application allows extended time for powders to dissolve. Strain the liquid milk paint through a paint strainer or cheesecloth before pouring into the hopper. IMPORTANT: Use the largest needle size available, typically 2.0, while spraying. This helps prevent clogging. Use common, professional spraying techniques for best results. Applying Outdoors Real Milk Paint® can be used outdoors (it is colorfast!) but there are a few specifics you should know before doing so. The only materials that milk paint can be used on outdoors are raw, absorbent materials. These include raw wood, concrete, brick, stone, and others. If the materials are not absorbent (like finished or sealed wood, metal, fiberglass, etc) then the milk paint will not adhere to the surface nor allow for sealing of the milk paint later on. For outdoor projects, we strongly recommend sealing Real Milk Paint® with a sealer or topcoat. Because the milk paint is porous if left unsealed it will wear from the surface and absorb water, dirt, and other stains. Often, if the milk paint gets wet or rained on before sealing, it can have a white haze where the lime of the milk paint is coming to the surface. There are many options to seal milk paint, some great options include Outdoor Defense Oil or Pure Tung Oil. Real Milk Paint® will also take other finishes such as poly, varnish, and more. Pro Tip: Pure Tung Oil can be added to liquid Real Milk Paint® to give it water resistant properties and remove the need to seal it later on. For this method, we recommend adding 25% by volume of Pure Tung Oil to liquid milk paint. For example, if you mixed one gallon of milk paint, add one quart of Pure Tung Oil. Disposal & Storage Liquid milk paint should be used within two weeks after mixing with water. Because Real Milk Paint® is entirely natural, disposal can be done in your compost or by local disposal regulations. Real Milk Paint® has an extended shelf life as a dry powder (3-5 years). Store powdered milk paint in a cool, dry place in a sealed container. Hints & Tips Tips From The Pros Admittedly, milk paint can be a learning (or maybe un-learning) experience as though it is a paint, it breaks what the common understanding of paint is. Here are some helpful tips from the pros here at RMP Finishes to get the most out of your milk paint. When mixing the paint, use less water than called for. Mixing a thicker solution is easier and gives more control. More water can be added to get the right consistency. Stir frequently while painting or after any period of time where the paint has sat between use. When applying the paint, keep a wet edge. This means always blending new paint into the wet boundary of your previous section so they fuse seamlessly without creating